Housing Requirements & Supplies
Introduction to Housing
Note: This animal needs to be kept in a species only aquarium because anything smaller than the Axolotl will get eaten by it, and anything that doesn't get eaten is likely to nip at the Axolotl's gill filaments or injure it's soft skin.
For a fully aquatic salamander housing and water quality are some of the most important aspects of it's care.
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I have kept fish for over a decade, some easy to care for and others with unique and stringent requirements for their habitats. One thing all aquatic life has in common is a reliance on the right equipment to provide a suitable physical environment to sustain long healthy lives.
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In this section we will cover the basic information and supplies needed to make sure your Axolotl has a happy home:
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Once you have read these sections be sure to visit the "Water" and "Care" pages so you can be sure to cover all the basics!
Basic Supplies
You'll need...
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A glass aquarium (2 ft long minimum)
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Glass or mesh lid to fit your aquarium
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Stand designed for your selected aquarium
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Light for viewing of your Axolotl and to grow plants
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Filtration system
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Glass thermometer
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Substrate
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Piece of decor to serve as a hiding place
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Gravel vacuum/water changing equipment
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Turkey baster
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Liquid testing kit for water chemistry
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Water dechlorinator
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Air pump with air stone
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Large net
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10 gallon quarantine tank with lid
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Food for your Axolotl
Tank Size per Axolotl
What size tank do I need?
Axolotl are fairly sedentary creatures compared to fish, and have reasonable housing requirements relative to their size.
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As a rule of thumb your first Axolotl should have a tank of 2ft long (20 gallon). This size aquarium should be sufficient for one Axolotl for it's whole life, though babies can be kept in a 10 gallon while small and upgraded to a 24" long 20 gallon before they hit 6-7" in legnth. Having adequate water volume and space to move will help your pet stay healthy and prevent water quality issues.
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When adding additional Axolotl the formula goes: 1st Axolotl= 2ft long/ 20 Gallon, 2nd Axolotl= add 1 ft/10 Gallons, 3rd Axolotl= add 1ft/10 gallons, 4th Axolotl add 1ft/10 gallons.
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Of course this is not an exact art. A 40 Breeder (36x18x17) is widely agreed to be suitable for 3 Axolotl and a 55 gallon long (48x13x21) is considered suitable for 4 together. Of course bigger is always better!
Note: The more space and hiding spots you give your Axolotl the more likely they are to get along peacefully. A larger water volume also goes a long way towards preventing issues with water quality as well so make sure to get a tank that is sufficient to house the amount and size of Axolotl you want to keep!
Filtration & Flow Rate
Different kinds of filters & the importance of flow to Axolotl
As discussed in the "Water" section, filtration is vital to the "Nitrogen Cycle". There are Axolotl keepers that do not use filters and instead opt to do daily water changes or a use constant drip system, but for our purposes we will assume you are the majority of Axolotl owners and intend to purchase and use a filter on your aquarium. Your two most important factors in deciding on a filter type should be biological filtration and flow rate or adjustability. AXOLOTL DO NOT LIKE FLOW. This is one of the more common causes of stress related illness- too much flow. After filtration i'll go over some tips and tricks to reduce flow in your aquarium.
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There are many kinds of filters but I will only give a short piece on the most common types: sponge filters, hang on the back (HOB) filters, canister filters, internal filters and under-gravel filters. I have personally used all of these and prefer either a sponge filter or a canister filter depending on size of tank and number/size of my axies. You will want to pick the filter that seems best suited to your setup and your tank maintenance routine.
Sponge Filters
Sponge filters are some of the most popular with Axolotl owners. They offer biological filtration only but the right size sponge can handle an Axolotl's bio-load (the amount of waste they produce). You will need an air pump and tubing to use these.
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Sponge filters create little to no flow while adding oxygen to your water- a fantastic combination.
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These filters are also ideal for raising Axolotl hatchlings who are very sensitive to NH3, NO-2, NO-3 and flow, even more so than adults. If you intend to "breed" your pet you should always have a small "cycled" sponge filter handy.
HOB Filters
Canister Filters
HOB filters are also know as hang on the back or power filters. This type works by pulling water into the filter via an intake tube that hangs over the tank and into the water while the body of the filter hangs off the back of the tank, hence the name.
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HOB filters contain biological media, mechanical filtration media and most contain chemical filtration media as well (in the form of activated carbon).
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They are a cost effective option and a good way of having a balanced filtration system for cheap. They tend to have too high a flow rate for Axolotl so you will either have to adjust the flow rate (some models allow this such as AquaClear) or find a way to buffer the flow.
Canister filters are the heavy hitters of the filtration world. These filters have intake and output hoses running into the aquarium while the unit itself actually remains outside of the tank.
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Famous for their capacity for different media in high volumes and the clear water their many layers of filtration gives you, they are worth their high price tag.
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Canisters allow for a lot of customization as well- you can put lots of biological media for animals with high bioload or lots of physical filtration for planted tanks etc. Maintenance can be a pain until you get the hang of it but if you watch a youtube video before your first attempt you should be fine.
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Flow on canister filters is adjustable by opening/closing valves on the hoses, or you can buy spray bars and waterfall bars for most output hoses to disperse flow.
Internal Filters
These filters are unique in function- they operate like a canister but do not use hoses as they remain in the aquarium, and tend to hold media in a manner similar to HOBs.
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Most internal filters are small and suited for only small aquariums. Fluval makes some that rate for tanks up to 65 gallons, and these have adjustable flow rates and different ways the output can exit the filter (ie- top or bottom spout, middle spray holes, or any combination of the three). I have used the Fluval U4 and found it's flow was still too strong so I ended up aiming the filter against a tall piece of slate.
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In summary I feel there are better filters that are more suited to the specific needs of Axolotl.
Note: Some popular filter brands are
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Fluval
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Eheim
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Marineland
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Aquaclear
Under-gravel Filters
This type of filter is being mentioned simply to suggest you do not use it.
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Under-gravel filters have their uses in aquaria and were once very popular but are ill suited to use for Axolotl.
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As their name suggests this filter relies on gravel as its biological media, pulling/pushing water through it. Since Axolotl can swallow gravel and become impacted under-gravel filtration is far from ideal. Decaying matter tends to get caught in the gravel and make a mess, and this is a filter model that requires an air pump.
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Flow Rate
Axolotl are picky. Out of all the different species of aquatic life I have had I have never dealt with one as sensitive to flow as the Axolotl. A common cause of illness and a big stressor, flow rate is something to be aware of when purchasing a filter, decor and organizing your tank. You want the flow rate to be low enough that the Axolotl's gill filaments aren't irritated or moved and yet not have the water so still that pockets of water don't get filtered properly or receive enough oxygen.
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There are ways to tell if your pet is being aggravated by flow, such as gills curling forward in "C" shape or rejecting food. More details on flow/stress related issues can be found on the "Illness" page. If your flow rate is low enough to keep your axie happy, chances are you will need to add oxygen to your water by means of an air pump and air stone near the aquarium floor. This helps ensure a better gradient of distribution for oxygen and helps prevent pockets of still water.
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Some good ways to slow the flow are:
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Spray bars for filter outputs
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Tying or suctioning floating corkbark underneath a HOBs output
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Using a loofa tied to the output "waterfall" of a HOB
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Putting floating plants under the filters outflow
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Aiming the filter output at the surface, a tank wall or a piece of slate
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Wrapping and securing a sponge around output tubes to create a spray bar
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Placing a rock or large hide under the outflow to distribute flow
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Buying a filter that can have it's flow adjusted as part of it's functionality
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There are many helpful youtube videos of individuals performing DIY tutorials on flow adjustments for Axolotl, I personally watched a few and I encourage you to as well!
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Temperature
Axolotl are very much cold water Amphibians. The lakes they originate from in Mexico are glacial fed (see the "History" page to learn more) and they fare best in temperatures between 16°C and 18 °C (60-64 °F). Since your average room temperature is 21 °C (72°F) or higher many Axolotl keepers end up needing to find ways to lower the temperature in the aquarium itself. here we will go over how temperature effects your Axolotl and some ways to beat the heat.
Temperature and your Axolotl
The temperature of your aquarium is something you will probably have to work at a little if you're keeping Axolotl. At least in my neck of the woods our summers get very hot (20 to 40 °C) and our winters are long and cold (-20 to -40°C). While these winter temperatures make basements ideal Axolotl tank spots, the summers can drive even the coolest part of my home into the dangerous highs for my Axies.
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Some of the signs of heat stress are;
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White patches/film on the skin
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Lethargy
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Fungus
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Lack of Appetite
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Curled tail tip (generally indicative of extreme stress)
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See more symptoms of heat stress on the "Illness" page.
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Note: Adjusting temperature needs to be done gradually! Temperature should not alter more than 1-2°F per hour. When using methods like Frozen water bottles you need to watch the rate of change and "chain" the water bottles to keep it consistent. Frequent drastic temperature swings will kill your Axolotl.
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Some good ways to lower the temperature of your Axolotl's tank are:
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Aquarium Chillers (Expensive but worth it!- I have a PolarBear CC-25)
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Aquarium fans or floor fans pointed at the tank surface
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Switching out glass/solid lids for a mesh lid
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Large frozen water bottles
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Frequent cold water changes
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Insulating the aquarium
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Moving the aquarium down a level in the home
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Putting the tank on the floor
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Air conditioning the room with the Axolotl in it
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Turning off tank lighting which generates heat
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Using Sponge, HOB or Canister filters as internal filters produce heat
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This is one of those pieces of equipment that is a staple for most aquarists, but considered optional for Axolotl keepers. I am personally heavily biased in favour of lighting your Axie tanks since I plant every tank I own, and since it's something you will be dealing with at aquatic supply stores and in conversation at least once I'll give a brief overview here. Lighting can be a vital part of triggering "Breeding" behaviour, giving your pets a night/day cycle if they are away from a window and growing plants to aid in "nitrate reduction", produce oxygen and provide a place for your Axolotl to play.
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For our purposes lighting is divided into three types of bulbs/fixtures; 1. Incandescent lights, 2. Fluorescent lights and 3. LED lights. There is also metal halide lighting, compact flourescent lighting (CFL), very high output lighting (VHO) and the new SHO lighting but these are all so bright and used for such advanced purposes that they are ill suited to Axolotl aquariums.
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1. Incandescent lighting is your standard bulb with a filament and screw in base. I've only ever seen them made to fit small aquarium fixtures like 5, 10 and 20 gallon tanks. These bulbs put off a lot of heat and burn out quickly, they also need to have a protective barrier between them and the water as evaporation will short them out. They can grow low light plants such as anubias, vallinseria and java fern.
2. Fluorescent lighting has a few different tiers of power, measured in K (kelvin) and comes in many different colours. Some of the different types (in order from oldest to newest) are: T8, T12, T5, T2. Each type is suited to different types of aquariums with height, plants grown, energy efficiency, heat and CO2 regime being important factors in selecting your fluorescent bulb/fixture setup. I have used T8, T12 and T5HO with my Axolotl and found all to be good fits when paired with the right plants. So long as your tank is not taller than 21" all of these should be able to grow low light plants with the T5HO being capable of growing medium and medium-high lighting plants. This lighting uses bulbs that need to be replaced every 6 months or so for full effectiveness.
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3. LED (Light emitting diodes) have many benefits. They last longer (up to 50,000 hours), have crisp, clean colour and a good balance of PAR and PUR (two different kinds of emitted light used for growing plants). I find them more energy efficient than my T5HO were, with a nice white tone as opposed to the yellow tint I noticed in fluorescent lights. Many LED light fixtures sold for aquariums at your average chain store are only capable of keeping low low light plants alive and are designed more for viewing purposes. Many LED fixtures are designed to raise up or extend to suit your tank height and length. I use a Fluval Finnex + which was reasonably priced, keeps my low/medium lighting plants thriving and has a black-light option so I can view my Axolotl at night.
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Note: Some Axolotl carry the GFP (Green Fluorescent Protein) gene and glow bright green under actinic, black or night lighting. More details on this can be found on the "Biology" page.
Lighting
Substrate
An important component of any aquarium, substrate is definitely something worth going over. For Axolotl owners substrate is very important! Since axies are vacuum feeders (details on this method and associated anatomy in the "Biology" section) they suck in water, substrate and food without a whole lot of concern for overall edibility. This means we cannot keep them on a substrate that could cause an "impaction" or blockage if ingested.
GRAVEL IS DEFINITELY ADVISED AGAINST.
Adult Axolotl who were kept on a gravel substrate and switched to a safer substrate could be seen to poop out neon coloured gravel for months afterwards! Fatal impactions are common enough that this substrate should be avoided completely for the safety of your pet.
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Some good substrates to consider are:
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Barebottom tank- Less aesthetically pleasing to some but easy to clean and safe as they come. Some keepers have said they feel their pets become stressed on a bare bottom aquarium since they can't grip well but I have only used these with juvies and can't speak to this myself.
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Sand- Fine aquarium sand and pool filter sand are great natural looking alternatives to gravel. Waste sits on top and is vacuumed off easily, and with a dirt layer underneath and the right lighting you can grow a great array of plants. While sand may be ingested while feeding it passes with ease in most adults. Juvenile Axolotl should only be place on sand substrate at 5" or longer. Sand should never be layered thicker than 2" and you should use a chopstick during your weekly water change to disturb the sand and prevent buildup of toxic gases/anaerobic bacteria.
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Tile- Ceramic tile comes in many natural colours and interesting textures and looks pleasing while being easy to clean. As with a bare bottom tank you can have plants that attach to driftwood or other decor as well as plants that thrive when potted. Be sure to use only aquarium safe sealant for fixing your tiles in place.
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Large River Stones- This substrate can be absolutely beautiful but I hear it's a nightmare to clean. The stones must be bigger than the Axolotl's head and care must be taken with the gravel vacuum to suck up all the waste gathered/fallen between the rocks. Good for a natural look and neat for growing plants if you have a dirt/sand substrate underneath the stone bed.
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Personally I am a fan of sand, since I keep Axolotl in a planted aquarium. Each keeper needs to select the substrate that suits their tastes and maintenance regime though, I have seen beautiful examples of all 4 types in the "Caudata.org" member galleries.
Plants
One of my favorite aspects of keeping an aquarium is the beautiful display of living plants I can keep in my show tank. Since Axolotl are not fans of overly bright light it's suggested that you limit your light (and therefore the plants you keep) to the low or low-medium range. My Axolotl use the plants as hides, places to play and just generally utilize them in their everyday activities. It is a common occurrence in my home to look over and see 2 or 3 dorky Axolotl hanging from my big melon sword plant or my floating plants just relaxing, and I personally feel it is very enriching for them.
In addition to being beautiful and a blast for your pets, live plants produce oxygen, shift the sand with their roots and "remove nitrate". Floating plants and semi-submersed plants are especially effective nitrate reducers. Some good plants for filter boxes or to put in the back of your tanks with their roots submerged are golden pothos, "lucky" bamboo, and the wandering jew. All of these plants can be propagated for the aquarium by taking clippings/cuttings from potted adult plants and placing them stem deep in a vase of water. With some sunlight and time the plant pieces will start to grow aquatic roots, at which point you can put them in your tank.
Anubias
A. barteri, A. nana, A. hastifolia, A. coffeefolia
Anubias is one of my personal favorite aquarium plants for cold water Axolotl tanks of every substrate variety. This plant needs it's roots above the substrate, and should be secured to rock or preferably driftwood. It reproduces via rhizome, so it covers a piece well and is easy to separate. This plant is ideal for people who want a natural looking tank but have tile or bare bottom aquariums, as it can be placed onto decor and thrive there. It requires very minimal lighting (i've even grown one by the light of a window near a tank) but they grow fastest and thrive best in lighting that is the higher end of low, or medium.
Out of the many varieties you will find for purchase the most common are: A. barteri- my personal favorite it is a great mid-ground plant that has large rounded leaves ending in a point, A. nana- smaller round leaves and is more of a foreground plant, A. hastifolia- Background to mid-ground plant that can grow leaves on long stems which are more triangular and leave the water occasionally, A. coffeefolia- mid-ground or foreground plant with blunter round leaves that have deep ridging.
Cryptocoryne
C. wendtii
This plant is easy to find in aquarium stores and it's rust brown and deep green colouration are something different in a mid-ground cold water scape. This plant prefers waters warmer than what I keep mine at but seems to be growing all the same.
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Crypts are heavy root feeders and they don't appreciate being moved (mine is currently melting/fighting algae as I just set up a new tank). Iron heavy water produces redder leaves, and though this plant thrives best with CO2 and fertilizers it will grow and propagate via runners without them if you provide enough light.
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When using sand substrate you might find the crypts do better when growth is assisted by root tabs, but they seem to be able to carry on without. This is a low-medium light plant. Worth noting, if potted in a large pot of aquarium safe dirt substrate with a sand cap this plant should do well in most lit bare bottom and tiled tanks too.
Elodea
E. densa
Also known as Anacharis, this plant grows fast, eats Nitrate like mad, and is a bright green that looks great in cold water aquariums. Another plant that grows rather tall, it is best used as a background piece.
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They do fine at temperatures as low as 59 degrees Fahrenheit, and mine have always thrived in sand substrate. A good plant to lay heavily when first starting a planted tank, Elodea helps prevent the growth of algae by growing fast enough to out compete it. This is one of the plants that my Axolotl spend the most time hanging out in as it can grow fairly dense.
Golden Pothos
E. aureum
Epipremnum aureum is also known as Devil's Ivy or Golden Pothos. It is primarily a terrestrial plant but can be propagated as described above to grow with it's roots submerged.
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If you take plants direct from being potted and submerge those roots in the water they will most often melt. It is definitely best advised to use cuttings with roots grown out specifically for water to avoid the mess of roots dissolving.
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This plant can be purchased in large amounts for 10-15$ at Canadian Tire, Lowe's or Home Hardware garden sections
Vallisneria
V. spiralis, V. americana, V. nana
Vallisneria is a hardy cold water plant that is very popular among hobbyists. It's a root feeder that prefers low light. and hard/alkaline water. These plants are most often seen as background plants since they can grow to very tall lengths, and they reproduce via stolon (commonly called runners) under the sand so they fill in nicely.
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It comes in two general types- Jungle val or V. americana (large, thick, straight) and Corkscrew val or V. spiralis (twisted, spiraled, thinner). Recently V. nana has come on the scene but requires higher lighting and is more of a mid-ground or carpet type plant.
Decoration
This section brings us to the finishing touches! Installing decorations and adding hides for your Axolotl are the final steps in setting up your new pets home. Axolotl need to have a place to call their own that provides some peace from tank mates and shade from the brighter lights of daytime. It is suggested that you have at least one hide per Axolotl in your colony to minimize aggression and territorial nipping behaviour.
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Decorations can serve as hides, interesting objects for your axie to climb on and explore, places to secure plants that need roots above the substrate and as aesthetic accents to your overall aquarium. There are hundreds of different human made decorations to choose from ranging from plastic or ceramic faux rocks to plastic and silk plants. Since Axolotl have soft sensitive skin it is best to avoid any decorations with sharp edges (some plastic plants fall in this category) or large points. Simple is also best when selecting the decor for your Axolotl aquarium as complicated decorations with many holes can have hollow sections with stale water or provide dangerous places for your clumsy axie to get stuck.
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In the end decoration is almost entirely based on personal preference. What is beautiful to one aquarist may be too crowded or colourful for another, while some modern aquarium scapes can seem too bland for others. To each their own! Since I can't speak as to what you're into I'll include some pictures of my crew enjoying their hides/decor and helpful decoration tips to get you off to a good start:
Helpful Decoration Tips:
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Drop a bit of vinegar on a rock to test if it is aquarium safe. If it fizzles do not use it, if it doesn't go ahead and put it in after a good cleaning.
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Aquarium stores sell expensive glue for securing plants to driftwood and decor, but it's really just super glue. Crazy glue is safe for aquariums, use the name-brand to be sure.
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Cheap fishing line is a good way to tie on mosses just make sure to tie it tight so your pet doesn't end up with a snared foot.
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Driftwood releases tannins which dye your water brown and lower your pH. To avoid this, boil your new driftwood before using it and add a carbon bag to your filter to remove discoloration.
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Not all driftwood sinks immediately. Mopani wood, bog wood and other dark dense pieces will sink right away but branched wood like spider wood will need to be anchored, boiled or weighted down for a week or two until it is waterlogged.
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PVC piping and terra cotta pots make safe, cheap hides for all sizes of Axolotl.
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Silk plants are a safer, long lasting option for your aquarium than plastic plants. Using silk plants as opposed to cheaper plastic options will prevent injury. They can be hard to find so try Amazon.ca or Big Als Online- if you spend over $35 you get them shipped to you for free!
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Floating cork-board is a good way to have a natural looking aquarium and also provide a shady spot for your Axolotl.
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You can use stainless steel screws to secure suction cups to driftwood and rocks to keep them in place.