Axoltol Quick Care Sheet
Is an Axolotl right for me?
If you're asking yourself this question you have come to right place. Before you go out and buy an Axolotl ask yourself the following:
-
Am I willing to commit to keeping this animal for the 6-10 years it will live in captivity?
-
Am I okay with the fact that my cute baby Axolotl will someday be a full grown animal that is 9-12" long?
-
Do I have space for the species only 20 gallon aquarium (or bigger) it will need?
-
Can I keep the tank temperature low enough (below 19 degrees celcius)?
-
Do I have time to be responsible for the weekly water changes my Axolotl will require?
If you answered YES you are on your way to being one of the many hobbyists who keep these fascinating creatures as pets, and we're happy to have you! If you aren't sure if you're ready or if you'd like to learn more on these topics click the underlined links in the questions above and they will take you to the part of the website where I go into detail on it. After this page be sure to visit the "Water" page to figure out how to understand and start the Nitrogen Cycle, then the "Housing" page to read about all of the aspects of your setup you will want to learn about before you purchase your supplies and bring your pet home.
​
Which brings us to...
Selection, Acclimation & Quarantine
The first thing to consider when buying your Axolotl is where to buy it from? Aquarium shops, local breeders and ordering from an online breeder are all good options to consider. Popular in the pet trade, Axolotl can usually be found in most specialty aquarium stores and in chain pet stores in big cities. If you're willing to drive check websites like Craigslist, Kijiji and other buy/sell sites that may be advertising juveniles for sale or adults for re-homing. Online breeders are a good option here in Canada, with at least one good reliable breeder that ships nationwide- "Axolotl Canada", and a few others to explore. Caudata.org member forums has a section for buy/sell that might have Canadian members selling them as well, as do some facebook aquarium sites.
​
When buying from anyone you always want to make sure to select a healthy animal.
Avoid sellers/animals if you notice:
-
Axolotl gasping at the surface
-
Any animals with fungus
-
That the majority of the animals are missing limbs and gills (among youngsters the occasional nip will happen but most of them should still be whole)
-
Bumps, sores or red marks
-
Bloated stomach
-
Very thin/underfed Axolotl
-
Gills curved forward like a "C"
-
Axolotl are kept with fish or on gravel
-
They are selling juvies under 3" long
​
Signs of a good hobbyist and healthy Axolotl are:
-
Axolotl with dark gills in a standard position
-
The animals are alert and slightly active (juveniles tend to be more active than adults)
-
Colouration of the body and markings are smooth and even- no scary white patches where they shouldn't be and no angry red ones
-
Fingers, toes, legs, tails and gills are mostly accounted for
-
Clean water with low flow
-
Animals are kept on appropriate substrate
-
No overcrowding- everyone has space
-
Bright clear eyes
-
The thickness of a well fed Axolotl's body should be the width of it's head
​
Which brings us to...
Selecting your Axolotl
Quarantine
A vital practice in responsible fish-keeping, Quarantine is the separation of new arrivals or ill animals into a container all their own. This container can be unfiltered and have it's water changed daily to keep it clean or the container can be filtered and freshly "cycled". Quarantine is usually advised to be 4-6 weeks. The three main reasons for quarantine (QT)are:
-
TO PROTECT YOUR CURRENT AXOLOTL- By separating the new Axolotl from your existing colony of Axolotl you prevent any "illnesses" the new arrival may be carrying from being passed on to them. The 4-6 week duration of a typical QT period is enough time for most pre-existing conditions to become evident and parasites or infections that are carried to be identified and treated in isolation.
-
TO PROTECT YOUR NEW AXOLOTL- Transportation, housing conditions in store, overcrowding and the change in scenery/water parameters are all stressors that can drastically lower an animals immune system. Putting your new addition in QT gives it an opportunity to heal, eat well, adapt to new parameters and recover it's immune system. This is much better accomplished alone without the pestering and stress of other tank mates. Giving the animal it's own cycled container while it has a lowered immune system also prevents it from dangerous exposure to inert protozoans, parasites and bacteria that live in your main tank that would find the animal an opportunistic host in it's weakened state.
-
TO PROTECT YOURSELF- Some sellers or stores offer a return policy If the unfortunate happens and your new Axolotl falls seriously ill or passes away soon after purchase (5-7 days in most cases). In cases like this they will expect you to have isolated the animal and you will usually be asked to take a photo of it, or bring it's body and a water sample in to the store/to the seller before recieving refund.
Note: This is my typical quarantine setup. Barebottom tank (10 gallon) with lid and weak mini LED lights, driftwood or hide, small filter (in this case an internal filter) pre-cycled and some corkbark with suction cups to buffer flow.
Note: Quarantine extends past having an isolated container set up for new arrivals or ill animals- you will want to have a water change system (python, bucket, gravel vacuum etc.) and a separate net for your QT system to prevent any cross-contamination.
Acclimation
This is how we describe aquatic fish or in our case amphibians getting used to a new set of conditions. Acclimation is especially important when bringing home a new Axolotl and getting it set up in it's new QT tank, or when moving an Axolotl from one tank to another in a separate part of the home, etc.
​
First open the bag the Axolotl is in so that fresh air can enter the bag. If your bag is tall, roll the plastic edges down until there is about 3-4" left above the water in the bag. Next you want to place the bag in the aquarium you are acclimatizing the animal to, taking care not to dip the mouth of the bag in the water or let any of the fouled water in the bag go into the clean aquarium water. Clip the edge of the bag to the aquarium rim (I use big hair clips) to keep the bag from tipping or moving. The next part is the longest- leave the Axolotl bag to float as it is for 30-45mins so that the temperature of the water in the bag can slowly adjust to mirror that of the water in the tank. Once this time has passed you will want to use a net to remove the Axolotl from the bag and place it in the clean water. Do not dump the water in the bag into your tank as it probably has high levels of waste in it from transport, or possibly bacteria, protozoans etc from the site of purchase.
​
​
​
​
​
​
​
​
​
​
​
​
Special considerations:
-
If your water has a drastically different PH than the water the axie was previously kept in you can take small amounts (I use a 1/2 cup measuring cup) of tank water to the bag of water during the acclimation process. do this every 15 minutes or so and extend the acclimation process to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Unroll the bag more or raise and re-tie it to accommodate the extra water volume if necessary.
-
If the there is a difference of temperature between the two volumes of water that is 4 degrees Fahrenheit or more it is suggested that you do a "bucket acclimation" instead. Setup a bucket of fresh, dechlorinated water ran to the same temperature as that of the bag of water. Use a net to remove the Axolotl from the bag and add it to the bucket. leave the bucket out to sit until it reaches the same temperature as the tank. You may need to use frozen bottles of water to lower the bucket temperature if the tank is colder or a small heater if the tank is warmer. Monitor this adjustment carefully and make sure the changes in the bucket are gradual. Provide an air-stone if needed and use the PH acclimation method as well if it is required.
​
As discussed in "Housing" Axolotl do not appreciate drastic temperature changes. Be sure to stay attentive throughout this process!
​
​
Feeding, Housing Basics & Maintenance
In this section we will go over the basics of the daily necessities- feeding, housing and maintaining your pet. This of course is just a brief overview! There is so much to know surrounding these topics that I have explained them in more detail on the "Diet", "Housing", and "Water" pages. Please be sure to visit them after you are done this caresheet page. In addition I have linked any applicable words within this section to the place where they're covered in full!
Feeding
Note: Here you see "Brillar", my juvenile Golden Albino Axolotl removed from her QT tank for a big water change.
One of the most important things to consider as a pet owner is what you'll be feeding your pet. Here we will cover some of the food staples and common foods available for Axolotl. On the "Diet" page I go over all of these in detail, with tips on how to raise your own food, vitamins and raising food for Axolotl larvae!
​
A good way to go about diet is to select a staple food, and 2 variety or treat foods that you offer once a week in alternation. This means you have a nutritious foundation for your pet to grow on and a few items that are tasty and offer a different nutrient makeup to help cover all the bases.
​
-
Earthworms- Considered the best dietary staple, Axolotl thrive when fed size appropriate earthworms. They can be chopped or fed live and whole. Another plus side to Earthworms is that they can live approximately 8 hours in cold water such as our tanks so they do not foul the water if fed in moderation. You can find these at bait stores, hunting shops like Cabela's, etc. Be sure to feed them a bit before feeding them to your Axolotl to ensure maximum nutrition.
-
Bloodworms- Excellent for juveniles, you can find bloodworms sold as frozen cubes or sheets in most specialty aquarium stores. These worms foul the water quickly and are generally tiny so it is best to feed these to your Axolotl in a feeding jar or dish to prevent mess. I personally keep my Axies on 80% bloodworms and 20% earthworms until they are 1 year old at which point I slowly reverse the ratios.
-
Pellet Foods- This type of nutrition has come a long way in the past decade. Trout pellets used to be a good go to if you decided to use a pellet as a staple but now there are specifically formulated pellets meant for Axolotl. Relatively little research has been done into any of these food brands that I could find as most still use earthworms or bloodworms as staples. Exercise caution when purchasing pellet foods and always be sure to read the ingredients.
-
Brine Shrimp- Sold frozen in cubes or sheets as bloodworms are, brine shrimp are commonly seen in pet stores and are a tasty treat for most freshwater fish and amphibians. These really should be used often to provide variety.
-
Beef Heart/Liver- Available at most grocers this was once considered the ideal staple for Axolotl but has since proven to be very high in fat, leading to liver related "illness". It is a great treat option but should not be fed often.
Note: Nammu the GFP Leucistic at 9 months old enjoying some bloodworms. At this point she was getting 1.5 jumbo cubes per day.
Note: Brillar the Golden Albino at 4 months old having her meal of bloodworms. At this point she was getting 1 normal hikari brand cube per day.
Tip: Feed your Axolotl once daily until 1 year old then feed every 2nd day. They won't eat themselves to death though it can seem that they might.
Note: Here you will see a pack of Hikari brand jumbo sized cubes of frozen bloodworms. I really enjoy Hikari products and have had good interactions with their company when I was breeding Ranchu Goldfish and feeding Hikari.
​
Be sure you are buying from a reputable company! Frozen product can still carry harmful bacteria, remember to wash hands!
Hand feeding is a great way to bond with your Axolotl! It helps them recognize you, cuts down on mess and ensures every axie in the colony is getting their fair share. Axolotl may clumsily nip at your fingers (their aim can be horrible) but their bite doesn't hurt. If you don't want to use your fingers use chopsticks or tongs instead- and of course always remember to have clean hands.
Housing Basics
Your Axolotl's home is an important factor in it's health and quality of life. There are so many different ways to "decorate" your aquarium, and a few very important components ("filters", "lighting", "substrate" and more) to consider.
Tank- You will want to get a 10 gallon aquarium to start (juvenile's under 7") or a 20 gallon long aquarium for an animal 7"+. This 20 gallon long is sufficient for one Axolotl it's whole life. If you want to keep multiple Axolotl together please read the "Tank Size per Axolotl" section.
​
Filtration- The filter you select should be sufficient to handle the water volume of your tank and waste produced by your axie. AXOLOTL DO NOT LIKE FLOW. You want a filter that does not produce enough flow to stress your pet. "Flow rate" and "Filter types" are discussed in detail on the "Housing" page.
​
Lights- Axolotl do not need or enjoy a lot of light. You can use weak lights so you can see your pet or simply allow the tank to be lit by the ambient room lighting. If you want to grow plants or learn more about this please visit the in depth "Lighting" section.
​
Substrate- Your pet should be kept on fine sand, tile, large river rocks or a bare bottomed tank for substrate. DO NOT USE GRAVEL. Axolotl are prone to swallowing gravel and causing impactions or blockages which can be fatal. Read about the pros and cons of each type in the "Substrate" section.
​
Temperature- Axolotl do not handle heat well at all! They are a creature that thrives in cold calm water and their ideal temperature range is 14-18 degrees Celcius. Temperatures of 24 degrees Celcius and higher can kill the animal in mere days. it can be difficult to keep your aquarium in this range so read about "Temperature" in it's section for some helpful tips on beating the heat!
​
Tank Mates- The only thing that can live with Axolotl happily is other Axolotl. This animal needs to be kept in a species only aquarium because anything smaller than the Axolotl will get eaten by it, and anything that doesn't get eaten is likely to nip at the axies gill filaments or injure it's soft skin. Some keepers use "dither fish" successfully but introducing live fish to the aquarium is generally advised against- they could carry illnesses or parasites. Axolotl of opposite genders under 18 months should be separated by a sturdy tank divider to prevent immature "Breeding" which can be detrimental to the health of the female.
​
Decoration- Since Axolotl are not the most graceful creatures and they have soft skin it is best advised to avoid all sharp edged or pointy "Decoration". Some plastic plants have very rough hard edges and could cause injury as well. A good alternative is silk plants or "live plants". Axolotl need hiding spots! Try to provide at least one hide per Axolotl to prevent aggression between tank mates and stress in your pets. Terra cotta pots, rock structures, cubbies made of driftwood etc are all great options. In the end decor is all in the eye of the beholder, so have fun with it!
Maintenance
This is THE most important part of keeping your Axolotl healthy- maintaining it's aquarium. Keeping your water clean, your tank bottom free of decaying waste, plant debris and uneaten food and making sure you are caring for your filter will make sure your pet thrives and has the immune system needed to combat illness and injury.
​
Note: Remember to always use a fine large net or gently use your hands after wetting them in tank water when handling your Axolotl for Water changes and tank maintenance.
Water Changes & Waste Removal
Maintaining your Filter
You will want to change 20% of your tank water once a week and use a turkey baster to remove any Axolotl poop as you find it. These water changes are to replenish the nutrients in your water, keep you "PH" stable and remove "Nitrate" that builds up over time. Be sure to read the "Water" section to learn all about the water parameters that your water changes take care of. You will want to use a python water changer or a gravel vacuum and buckets to remove 20% of your tank's water volume. The use the buckets or python to fill your tank back up with clean "dechlorinated" water ran to match the tank temperature, completing your water change.
​
Clean water will make all aspects of Axolotl husbandry easier!
Once a month you will want to clean the media in your filtration system. Canister filters can go up to 2 months without a cleaning while sponge filters, power filters and internal filters will need it more frequently. To clean your filter media remove a bucket of tank water, unplug your filter and open up the main section containing your media. Next you want to remove the media and swish it around in the bucket of tank water to remove any debris. Take this opportunity to check your impeller for obstructions and tubing for clogs or debris as well. Reassemble your filter, fill it with water from the tank and restart it. Filter maintenance is vital to maintaining a healthy colony of "Nitrifying Bacteria"!
Always, always be sure to "CYCLE YOUR TANK".
Note: Always be sure to use a freshwater liquid test kit to check the "parameters" of you tap water and tank water before a water change and then check your tank again 24 hours after the water change. This is good maintenance of an aquarium and keeping a log of these values in a notebook may come in handy for diagnosing any "illnesses".
Biology, Breeding & Illness
Axolotl are complicated creatures in many ways, and very much typical amphibians in others. In these sections we will go over a some important aspects of Axolotl physiology for the first time pet owner. Understanding how this animals body works, recognizing breeding behaviour, sexing your Axolotl, identifying the common colours and being aware of the more frequently seen diseases and illnesses in Axolotl are valuable skills for any hobbyist! I find these topics some of the most interesting and I hope you do too. If you want to delve deeper into these topics please visit the "Biology" and "Breeding" pages where I give more details.
Biology
Axolotl are one of nature's most fascinating creatures! They stay in their larval stage for their whole lives, right up to and through sexual maturity. They can regrow limbs, gills, tails and even parts of their brain and spine! They come in a fascinating spectrum of colours thanks to modern day breeders ranging from warm yellows and whites to deep olives and black.
It is useful to understand the anatomy of your Axolotl so that you can properly discuss it with others or describe illness and injury accurately. Since Axolotl are semi-transparent while young juveniles I was intrigued by this topic early on. Below I have labelled 2 photos of Nammu to help roughly identify the internal and external anatomy of an Axolotl.
In this first photo you will see Nammu at 12 months old as a fully mature adult. She is 10" from nose to tail tip and still has 6-12 months of growth ahead of her. Some statistics on the biology of Axolotl are:
​
-
Lifespan: 6-10 years average in captivity, up to 15 years in the wild.
-
Legnth: Adults average between 7-12" (23-30cm) long but can reach sizes of up to 18" (45cm) long.
-
Weight: Adults can weigh between 2.11-3.88oz approximately.
-
Age to Sexual Maturity: 6-18 months with 12 months being the average.
-
Gestation period: 24 hours from mating.
-
Duration to hatching: 2 weeks average (temperature dependant)
-
Male spermatophores laid: up to 25
-
Female eggs deposited: 300-1100
​
More details on "breeding" can be found on the associated page.
Colour is something all keepers have a preference for. On the "Biology" page I have listed all colour types with photos and a crash test on the associated genetics.
​
For now a quick list of colours are:
-
Albino
-
Golden Albino
-
Leucistic (includes "Dirty Leucistic")
-
Copper
-
Wild Type
-
Melanoid
-
Piebald (Genetic Anomaly)
-
Mosiac (Genetic Anomaly)
​
Albino colouration through to and including Leucistic are light coloured and lacking in spots completely (though dirty Leucistic have freckling and Golden Albino have with pigmentation spotting) and have pink or red gills.
Copper through to and including Melanoid have darker body colour bases with varying degrees of spotting, though Melanoids can be so dark as to appear without spots. These animals have darker gills or a gill colour that matches their bodies.
​
Piebald and Mosaic are genetic anomalies that result from 2 or more eggs fusing to create an animal that expresses 2 (Piebald) or more (Mosaic) colourations at once. These occur at random and you aren't likely to find one for purchase.
Regeneration is a fascinating physical ability that is unique to very few animals in the world. The Axolotl can regenerate parts of it's body when injured. This ability is "stronger" when they are younger in the sense that it is faster in juveniles. It can be very stressful to your pet (especially adults) to regrow limbs and repair damage so it is to be avoided at all costs. Healing occurs faster at lower temperatures which is unique. In these two photos you can see Nova's gill regeneration over the first 2 months after she arrived here from overcrowded conditions.
Breeding
As far as "mole salamanders" go the Axolotl is fairly easy to breed. Like many other members of it's genus it takes a while to reach sexual maturity and even longer to reach prime breeding condition. Axolotl reach sexual maturity at approximately 12 months old but it can be as early as 6 months in rare cases or as late as 18 months. Although there are indicators that make sexing Axolotl possible, nothing is guaranteed and it is not uncommon to wake up to see a tank of all one gender with eggs in it thanks to a sneaky mating. I strongly advise that purposeful breeding be practised by advanced hobbyists only and that eggs only be raised by individuals who are sure they can find homes for the resulting offspring. If you've been caught unawares by a surprise breeding, please also read the section dedicated specifically to "Breeding" as well as this one! Here however we will just go over some general info about sexing, mating and larvae for Axolotl.
Sexing your Axolotl
Determining gender in Axolotl can be tricky! You can tell your pet is sexually mature if it's toes have elongated (the foot structure reminds me of that of a bearded dragon) and the animals toe tips have changed colour. Darker coloured Axolotl's toe tips go lighter than the foot and light coloured Axolotl's toe tips go darker, as shown in this photo of Nammu.
​
The easiest indicator of gender is the shape and size of the cloaca. Female's cloaca are bumps with perhaps a small bit of swelling, whereas male Axolotl have very pronounced cloacas that are large and very swollen (if you're familiar with other Caudata, it is very similar to most terrestrial male newts).
MALE
FEMALE
FEMALE
Some other distinctions between male and female Axolotl are their head shape, body shape and tail shape. Males tend to have longer heads, narrower bodies and larger rudder-like tails. Females tend to have short squared heads with large round bodies and shorter tails. Again though, any of these descriptions can be on either gender they are just more frequently seen in one gender than the other.
​
It is worth noting that the rounder body shape in females is due to the formation and carrying of eggs. The rounding is most prominent directly in front of the hind legs, as shown in the previous section discussing anatomy.
Fertilizaton & Egg Laying
MALE
"Breeding" season is naturally between early spring through to early summer with the prime breeding season being March to June. Breeding can be stimulated by shortening or lengthening the lighting period and altering the tank temperature to mimic the change in seasons though I've heard a water change that's a few degrees off can be enough to do it accidentally if the Axolotl are in the mood.
​
When the animals decide to mate the male lays his spermatophores on an ideal surface like slate and leads the female around to them where she picks them up with her cloaca and internally fertilizes her eggs. They do this with some nudging of each others nether regions and their tails in the air, it can be quite a show. 24 hours later the female deposits her eggs onto available surfaces with Elodea being an ideal laying site, though she will use most any surface her environment has to offer as a spot to lay her 300-1100 eggs. These hatch out into Axolotl larvae much as tadpoles do in approximately 2 weeks (temperature dependent).
Larvae and Juveniles
When an Axolotl larvae hatches it only has feathery gills and two small rods called "balancers". In 2-3 weeks the front limbs develop, followed by the hind limbs an additional 2-3 weeks later. Once all the limbs have developed the Axolotl is essentially a miniature version of an adult.
​
One aspect of raising larvae that makes things a bit more difficult is that they will only eat live food for the first few weeks of life. Baby brine shrimp (BBS) or tiny Daphnia are the advised food sources for this stage. The "Breeding" page has some more information on how to raise food for larvae.
It is important that Axolotl hatchlings be given enough space. Too little space and too much light can lead to even more cannibalistic behaviour than is typical. From a few days after hatching onward it is suggested that larvae are sorted by size. After a few weeks of BBS the larvae can be switched to bloodworms followed by other staples a few weeks later. All juvenile Axolotl should be kept until they are at least 3" long before being sold.
​
Clean water is of paramount importance, as larvae and juveniles are even more sensitive than adults to poor water quality. Using a small sponge filter and doing frequent water changes, as well as daily taking time to remove any decaying food or dead larvae is good practice.
Illness, Diseases & Medicaton
One of the things that frequently brings new keepers to care sheets, forums and chat rooms is when their new pet falls ill. Even with the best care and husbandry practices animals can become injured and most people will at some point have to deal with treating their Axolotl for physical injury or disease. This is a topic that deserves more information than I can give here on the QuickCare Sheet, so once you're done the basics be sure to read the "Illness" page to better understand the fascinating science of diseases and medications.
Note: Most infections and many adverse symptoms can be directly linked to poor "water quality"! Always check and correct any issues with "Water" before moving on to diagnosis and treatment.
Physical Injury
This is one of the more common issues faced by Axolotl keepers, especially in tanks with multiple axies or with juveniles. While under 6" Axolotl are prone to nipping parts off of each other as seen in the above photo of Luna who arrived with a whole missing foot and heavy gill damage. Some wounds heal faster than others (age and temperature also play a part in healing speed), like tails nips and gill filaments. The thing to watch for with any physical injury is the development of fungus. Monitor the site of injury for any fluffiness, or blurring around the margins of the wound as I find that tends to be a warning sign. As soon as there is noticeable fungus coming from the wound you want to start daily salt baths. Concentration and procedure for salt baths can be found on the "Illness" page.
Infection- Parasitic, Bacterial & Fungal
Parasites can be internal like Roundworms and Flatworms (helminths) or external like Vorticella and Gill Flukes. Things like flukes can be treated with Praziquantel while worms can be treated with levamisole. Diagnosing parasites can be difficult so be sure to visit "Illness" for a list of common symptoms of parasitic infections. Dosage can be finicky so be sure to refer to an Exotic Vet, Caudata.org member forums, or a friendly professional Axolotl hobbyist.
​
There are a few bacterial infections common in aquariums that Axolotl are prone to as well. Aeromonas, a blood disease (septicemic) causes symptoms like red angry patches, vomiting and refusal of food. Antibiotic treatments for bacterial infections are best administered by a veterinarian that specializes in exotics/amphibians but there are methods such as adding Metronidazole to food or treatment in QT that can be performed by the hobbyist. Antibiotics should be added to the water only after much research and/or consultation with an advanced hobbyist or professional if it is your first time with an ill Axolotl.
​
Salt is a simple and effective treatment for fungal infections. It is natural, easy to come by and in appropriate concentrations it is very safe. Other treatments for fungal infections are things like almond leaves, Melafix or tea baths. The most commonly seen fungus on Axolotl is saprolegnia, which can be treated with a few commercially available medications as well which are discussed in detail on the "illness" page.
Diseases
Note: Here we see that Luna's foot is regrowing. Note the beginnings of 4 toe buds forming in addition to the already existing 5th toe. Sometimes regenerative skills go awry and make an extra toe or limb!
Medications & Treatment
The soft, permeable skin of an Axolotl is a beautiful thing but poses some unique challenges when dealing with medications, chemicals and treatments for illnesses. There are many commercially available medications sold for fish that just are not safe or meant for use in amphibians while other medications are fine at partial or half doses. The "Illness" page has some great information about the science of medications but for now we will do a nice easy list of safe and unsafe products.
​
Do Not Use:
-
Any product listing "Malachite Green" as an ingredient
-
Sterazin
-
Cuprazin
-
Protozin
-
Clout
-
Rid Rot
-
Copper as an ingredient
​
Considered Safe:
-
​Panacur
-
Furan-2
-
Mercurochrome
-
Melafix
-
Flagyl
-
Methylene Blue
-
Tetra Sulfa Bath
-
Maracyn
-
Nitrofura- G
-
The Complete Remedy
-
Myxazin
​
Furan-2 is noted as particularily effective for broad range bacterial treatment, Melafix for Fungal infections and Panacur for most internal parasites.
​
Often difficult to diagnose, there are some diseases that occur in Axolotl. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is unfortunately commonly seen in reptiles and amphibians. Caused by a vitamin deficiency MBD is preventable with a balanced "diet". Gas bubble disease is also preventable by allowing water to sit out and avoiding over-aerating your tank. Other things like tumors, liver failure, kidney failure and edema have a more grim outcome and are frequently untreatable. Please visit the "Illness" page to look over photos and symptoms if you believe your Axolotl may have a disease as opposed to an infection.
Thank you for stopping by and reading the QuickCare Sheet! I hope that it answered many of your questions, and gave you direction for where to go to find information on the aspects of husbandry you wanted to explore most! If there is anything I can do to help you or anything I can answer for you feel free to contact me via any contact box (found at the bottom of all pages). Enjoy your new pet and happy Axolotl keeping! -Amy B
Contact Me
